Still got a good bit of fine-sanding to do yet, but it's getting there
Friday, March 23, 2012
Colin's knife cont'd
Got some more work done on the knife, despite a lot of side-tracking this week
Still got a good bit of fine-sanding to do yet, but it's getting there
Still got a good bit of fine-sanding to do yet, but it's getting there
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
Colin's Knife and Wallet
Started work today on my buddy Colin's knife and wallet.
Began with measuring and rough-shaping/sizing of the Rosewood handles for his knife
Will now use the rough sizing to template the other handle tomorrow- once both are this size/shape, the rest of the sanding to fit will be done by hand
And, with the weather turning flaky, we go back inside, and begin the layout work for his wallet.
The wallet will consist of a bullhide core, with a pigskin interior, and Black Ostrich hide for the exterior.
1st, I laid-out the interior lining, and punched the perimeter holes for it.
Then, I did the sub-interior/bill portion to the inside of the lining. All this is rough mock-up for the moment- to figure out the dimensions/basic shapes. The actual interior will then be cut based on this, and trimmed to fit.
I've roughed the card/id pockets out so that they can each fit approx: 4 cards, if needed.
Once I get the interior parts sorted out, I'll then dye the core leather, and begin work on the exterior hide.
Meantime, I did a quick test-stamping to see how the pigskin would take to tooling for name, monogramming, etc.
Began with measuring and rough-shaping/sizing of the Rosewood handles for his knife
Will now use the rough sizing to template the other handle tomorrow- once both are this size/shape, the rest of the sanding to fit will be done by hand
And, with the weather turning flaky, we go back inside, and begin the layout work for his wallet.
The wallet will consist of a bullhide core, with a pigskin interior, and Black Ostrich hide for the exterior.
1st, I laid-out the interior lining, and punched the perimeter holes for it.
Then, I did the sub-interior/bill portion to the inside of the lining. All this is rough mock-up for the moment- to figure out the dimensions/basic shapes. The actual interior will then be cut based on this, and trimmed to fit.
I've roughed the card/id pockets out so that they can each fit approx: 4 cards, if needed.
Once I get the interior parts sorted out, I'll then dye the core leather, and begin work on the exterior hide.
Meantime, I did a quick test-stamping to see how the pigskin would take to tooling for name, monogramming, etc.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Re-making wood stocks for a Shotgun
Pulled the old Snake-Slayer out of the closet this evening, to dust her off, and get her ready for the influx of snakes we will soon have with this nice weather. She's an old New England Firearms .410 bore, single-shot, break-action.
A nice example of the Keep It Simple, Stupid philosophy, for sure. Extremely accurate, 100% reliable, very little to break or go wrong on it. I love Murphy-Proofed things.. I've had her for going on 20 years now, and she's never failed me in any way. Have taken out more Rattlesnakes and Cottonmouths around here with her than I can count.
.410 is perfect for that, as well as for some other potential hazards, in a pinch.
Anyway, the only nit-pick I've ever had with it, are the wood stocks that came on it. Not bad, but could be a little better. The forestock is a bit narrow in the hand, and the stock wood used is rather soft. Nicks a bit too easily, etc.
Upon inspecting it today, I noticed that the forestock was also a little bit wobbly. So, I pulled it off and took a look:
The little, curved piece, where it meets with the action, and hinge, is a little loose.
That piece mounts via these 2 screws. The soft wood has loosened a bit, over the years of many hundreds of shells fired through it.
So, for the time being, I've tightened those back up, as much as I can, but.. I've also decided to, in the coming weeks, re-make these stocks.
I plan to use either walnut, if I can find it in the sizes I need, or -more likely, some Curly Maple blocks I saw at my supplier recently. The Maple will be nice and hard, and resistant to such loosening/tearing out of the screw areas, and will be much prettier.
So, for now, I take the measurements of the bedding for the barrel, and the attachment points. Outside dimensions and contours I'll work out myself, to my own tastes.
I'll also make the Buttstock as well, to match it, of course.
On-hand loads are 2.75" #6 birdshot- the Snake-Slayer's primary loads, and 3" shells with 3 000-buck pellets, should they be needed for anything larger or more dangerous. -Nice loads these, in my own ammo-testing, they've penetrated almost everything my .45 has.
Quiet a few projects on the bench, already, but I'll begin on this as time and materials permit.
And, of course, I'll document the progress here when I do.
A nice example of the Keep It Simple, Stupid philosophy, for sure. Extremely accurate, 100% reliable, very little to break or go wrong on it. I love Murphy-Proofed things.. I've had her for going on 20 years now, and she's never failed me in any way. Have taken out more Rattlesnakes and Cottonmouths around here with her than I can count.
.410 is perfect for that, as well as for some other potential hazards, in a pinch.
Anyway, the only nit-pick I've ever had with it, are the wood stocks that came on it. Not bad, but could be a little better. The forestock is a bit narrow in the hand, and the stock wood used is rather soft. Nicks a bit too easily, etc.
Upon inspecting it today, I noticed that the forestock was also a little bit wobbly. So, I pulled it off and took a look:
The little, curved piece, where it meets with the action, and hinge, is a little loose.
So, for the time being, I've tightened those back up, as much as I can, but.. I've also decided to, in the coming weeks, re-make these stocks.
I plan to use either walnut, if I can find it in the sizes I need, or -more likely, some Curly Maple blocks I saw at my supplier recently. The Maple will be nice and hard, and resistant to such loosening/tearing out of the screw areas, and will be much prettier.
So, for now, I take the measurements of the bedding for the barrel, and the attachment points. Outside dimensions and contours I'll work out myself, to my own tastes.
I'll also make the Buttstock as well, to match it, of course.
On-hand loads are 2.75" #6 birdshot- the Snake-Slayer's primary loads, and 3" shells with 3 000-buck pellets, should they be needed for anything larger or more dangerous. -Nice loads these, in my own ammo-testing, they've penetrated almost everything my .45 has.
Quiet a few projects on the bench, already, but I'll begin on this as time and materials permit.
And, of course, I'll document the progress here when I do.
Hide, Leather, and Wood samples in-stock
For those currently placing, or considering orders in the near future, here are some sample swatches of the Hides, Leathers -when dyed- and Woods I currently have in-stock.
I can acquire other choices, if requested though.
Ostrich leg hides -
In addition to Black, and natural with atomic-wax/clear coat, I have 3 shades of browns with which to dye the bullhides-
There is also Gator-print/embossed bullhide in brown.
For woods used for knife handles- I have :
Mahogany (left), and Red Oak (right)
Black Cherry (L) and Lacewood (R)
and Bloodwood
Walnut, I can get with ease. Cocobolo, Ebony, and Rosewood, are-thanks to Obama's nonsense with Gibson Guitars - becoming very hard to get, and pricey when it can be had.
I can acquire other choices, if requested though.
Ostrich leg hides -
In addition to Black, and natural with atomic-wax/clear coat, I have 3 shades of browns with which to dye the bullhides-
There is also Gator-print/embossed bullhide in brown.
For woods used for knife handles- I have :
Mahogany (left), and Red Oak (right)
Black Cherry (L) and Lacewood (R)
and Bloodwood
Walnut, I can get with ease. Cocobolo, Ebony, and Rosewood, are-thanks to Obama's nonsense with Gibson Guitars - becoming very hard to get, and pricey when it can be had.
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